The Bride’s New Clothes

Ogaan

A large circular installation, comprising wide mirrors and deep golden mannequins dressed in lavish Indian garments, seemed slightly out of place at the upscale DLL Emporio mall in New Delhi — with the Giorgio Armani store on one side and Tom Ford on the other. Nonetheless, the latest exposition by Ogaan, titled "Celebration in Four Parts" managed to turn quite a few heads.

The two-day exposition, which started on Friday, showcased new couture collections by four designers — Kavita Bhartia, Kiran Uttam Ghosh, Studio Petticoat and Pakistani designer Faiza Samee. All their collections (Fall-Winter Wedding) revolve around four central events in an Indian wedding — mehendi, sangeet, wedding and reception.

A wide variety of garments was on display in the showcasing area, a few metres away from the installation, which was created by noted set designer Sumant Jayakrishnan. Besides shararas, lehengas, salwar-kameezes and saris, more contemporary festive Indian pieces such as jackets and dresses also make an appearance in the collections.

Bhartia, who hosted the high tea at the venue, said, "One has to take into consideration the timing and economics of this exposition. The wedding season is just beginning, and it is a fact that one needs to do something different every time."

Samee's collection is marked by her signature style — traditional and colourful, with exquisite embroidery, mostly voluminous shararas and short blouses. Ghosh's collection was muted but strong. "I have tried not to make my clothes look too busy. I have used layering and pleats, but at the same time, tried to make one thing about the garment stand out," she said.

With models strutting around in the display arena and a steady stream of shoppers coming by, designer Debyani of Studio Petticoat was busy helping a young bride-to-be select a dress for her sangeet. "This time, we have used a lot of Kashmiri embroidery — nakshi, jaal prints and gold zardozi, but the silhouettes are simple," she said. The price of each of the pieces starts at Rs 18,000.

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